HondaCivicBlog.com has added a “Contact Us” page to the website. You can use this contact form to send us messages regarding the website. You can suggest topics for posts, submit feedback, inquire about advertising, and more! Just click the “Contact Us” link in the Pages menu at the left.
Dec 072007
Dec 052007
Painted brake calipers/drums offer a stunning detail to your ride. You can match them with other accent peices on your car to create a balanced look. What better way to compliment those new rims than to paint your brake calipers? Here are instuctions to paint your own calipers and drums!
First we will list some of the materials you will need to perform this project. Here is a list of materials you may want to have:
- Jack, Jackstands
- Wire Brush
- Caliper Paint Kit (Duplicolor makes a kit, check and autoparts store)
The first thing you want to do is jack up your car and secure it with jackstands. Don’t waste your time painting and then have your car fall to the ground! Next, you need to remove any old paint, dust, or oil from the calipers/drums. Use your wire brush and brake cleaner to do this job. After your calipers/drums are clean, its time to start painting.
Follow the instructions on the caliper paint kit. Apply the recommended amount of coats and allow for plenty of drying time between coats. You can use masking tape to cover parts that you do not want painted. And remember, you dont have to paint parts you wont be able to see, so dont waste paint.
Dec 052007
For those of you who don’t already know, LS/VTEC motors are a combination of a non-VTEC B-series block (B18A1, B18B1, B20B, B20Z) and a DOHC VTEC B-series head (B16 and GSR). LS/VTEC motors are a great way to obtain 160+ wheel HP for cheaper than buying a B16 or GSR motor that produce around the same amount of power, and a lot less torque. The LS/VTEC motor is a torque monster, especially when using a B20 block. LS/VTEC motors have a reputation of being unreliable and unsafe. Thats not true if you build your engine correctly and have the engine tuned properly. Are you interested in building the LS/VTEC motor? Here are a few links to get you started:
1.) LS/VTEC Info – Instructions from HondaSwap.com for building/assembling an LS/VTEC engine.
2.) LS/VTEC, CR/VTEC Info – Another from HondaSwap.com, but more B20/VTEC info.
3.) LS and B20 VTEC Basics – This is a great guide for newbie’s explaining LS/VTEC motors from JDMCivic.com
Dec 042007
Learn how to properly and safetly remove and replace your camshaft(s) with this tutorial from HondaCivicForum.com. The guide was made for EG (92-95) Civics, but can still be used for other models with slight changes. This guide, which includes pictures, tells you step by step how to perform a cam swap. You can always trust the information at HondaCivicForum.com. Enjoy this nice tutorial!
Link: Camshaft Swap Tutorial
Dec 032007
We all know that Honda’s are like Lego’s. Many parts are interchangible and a combination can be formed to create a very fast car from stock OEM parts. One popular solution to more HP is a motor swap. There are many swaps available for Honda chassis, but some are NOT recommended. Here is a list of swaps that you should not do! I found this on HondaSwap.com.
4th gen
* D16Y7/8
* B16A2 (USDM)
* B16A3
* 96+ B18C
* 96+ B18B
* B18C5
* any H-series
* any C-series motor
We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons. The H-series will require much chassis denting, and while that may be cool to do on a race car, it makes your bay look like crap and can lead to a weaker engine bay. In addition, you wont have room for A/C or power steering if those options are required by you.The other motors are OBD-2, requiring a much greater challenge in wiring. The B- and D-series OBD-2 motors can be installed into the chassis fairly easily with a mount kit, but as stated above, the wiring is an absolute nightmare.
5th gen
* B16A SiR
* B17A
* B18A
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor
We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons as well. These motors are OBD-0, making it a hard swap into a car wired for OBD-1. It is easier to go backwards (as in, taking a 5th gen motor into a 4th gen chassis) than forwards. Remember, its all about backwards compatibility, not forwards.
While we haven’t listed the H-series motors as a non-recommended swap, we would like to say a few words about it. An H-series motor is generally 60-80 lbs heavier than a B-series motor. This adds to the already poor F/R weight distribution of Civics/Integra’s. While it can be solved with a set of stiffer springs and tighter shocks up front, it is still not a good choice for an AutoX or road course car. For drag, it excels. It’s heavier, putting more weight on the front wheels to help with traction. In addition to the weight factor, the chassis will need to be modified a little bit to fit it. Some things on the fire wall will need to be moved (such as brake master cylinder) off the wall. The drivers side quarter panel will also need to be dented in a little bit so the crank pulley doesn’t rub.
6th gen
* B16A SiR
* B16A3
* B17A
* B18A
* 94-95 B18C
* 94-95 B18B
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor
The reasons for these motors is similar to the 5th gen’s, only now we include OBD-1 in the list. When you own an OBD-2 chassis, the easiest swaps are OBD-2 motors.
The same general principles apply for the H-series motors as listed in the 5th gen’s explanation.
7th gen
* any B-series motor
* any D-series motor <2001
* any C-series motor
* any H-series motor
* any F-series motor
The new Civic’s share the i-VTEC and mounting patterns of the RSX. Neither chassis will accept an older motor. The standard D17 in the Civic or the K20 in the Civic Si/RSX are the new platforms of which Honda hybrid making will be in the future.