You have probably heard the term H2B or F2B lately, but had no idea what it meant. If you felt stupid, you’re not alone! Many people have no idea what H2B/F2B means. This article is going to change that. I have put together some nice information about H2B/F2B swaps. Read up and you will understand what goes into the swap, how its done, and where to get started. Enjoy!

H2B/F2B Basics:

H2B (also called F2B; they are the same thing since F and H-Series transmissions have the same bolt pattern) is simply mating a B-Series transmission to an H or F-Series engine. H2B swaps use mostly B-Series parts including axles, shift linkage, mounts, and the clutch/pressure plate.

You may be wondering how on earth you can use B-Series mounts with an H or F-Series engine. Well since our Civics and Integra’s only have one mount connecting to the engine, we can use the B-Series mounts on the other two since they are on a B-Series transmission. A kit for H2B swaps includes a custom timing belt mount on the engine that will mount right up to a B-Series chassis mount. So now you can use all three B-Series mounts.

H2B Up’s and Down’s:

There is one main advantage of H2B, displacement. The popular H/F engines used are usually 2.2 liter. Big bore equals big power! H and F-Series longblocks are usually inexpensive which makes an H2B swap more cost effective than building a B-Series or buying a K-Series. K-Series swaps are new so they are very expensive. An H2B kit may seem expensive at first, but after its all said and done you will spend a lot less on an H2B swap than a K or B-Series motor that matches the power output of the H2B.

There are also disadvantages of H2B swaps. First, hood clearence is an issue with some swaps. The engine will sit higher in the chassis than a normal H or F-Series swap. Also, stock or aftermarket H/F-Series headers cannot be used since the engine is tilted more vertically when using an H2B kit. You will need to fabricate your own header or buy a custom H2B header. Links to those headers are below. Another issue is oil drain. Some kits tilt the engine too far. Some kits require oil drain plug relocation.

Helpful H2B Links:
H2B EVO Kit – A link to the EVO H2B Kit website.
H2B QSD Kit – A link to the QSD H2B Kit website.
Alternator Bracket – A link to a prefabricated alternator bracket for your H2B swap.
H2B Header – A link to the custom H2B header for your swap.
Another H2B Header – Another custom H2B header.
Another Header – Again, here is another header option for H2B swaps.

 

If you know anything about cars you have probably heard of VTEC. But do you actually know what it is, what it does, or what it stands for? This article is designed to teach you the in’s and out’s of VTEC. After you are done reading you will finally understand why people love thier VTEC engines so much. Please enjoy!

Introduction to VTEC

VTEC (standing for Variable valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control) is a system developed by Honda to improve the combustion efficiency of its internal combustion engines throughout the RPM range. This was the first system of its kind and eventually led to different types of variable valve timing and lift control systems that were later designed by other manufacturers (VVTL-i from Toyota, VarioCam Plus from Porsche, and so on). It was invented by Honda’s chief engine designer Kenichi Nagahiro.

In the regular four-stroke automobile engine, the intake and exhaust valves are actuated by lobes on a camshaft. The shape of the lobes determines the timing, lift and duration of each valve. Timing refers to when a valve is opened or closed with respect to the combustion cycle. Lift refers to how much the valve is opened. Duration refers to how long the valve is kept open. Due to the behavior of the gases (air and fuel mixture) before and after combustion, which have physical limitations on their flow, as well as their interaction with the ignition spark, the optimal valve timing, lift and duration settings under low RPM engine operations are very different from those under high RPM. Optimal low RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in Continue reading »

 

For those of you who don’t already know, LS/VTEC motors are a combination of a non-VTEC B-series block (B18A1, B18B1, B20B, B20Z) and a DOHC VTEC B-series head (B16 and GSR). LS/VTEC motors are a great way to obtain 160+ wheel HP for cheaper than buying a B16 or GSR motor that produce around the same amount of power, and a lot less torque. The LS/VTEC motor is a torque monster, especially when using a B20 block. LS/VTEC motors have a reputation of being unreliable and unsafe. Thats not true if you build your engine correctly and have the engine tuned properly. Are you interested in building the LS/VTEC motor? Here are a few links to get you started:

1.) LS/VTEC Info – Instructions from HondaSwap.com for building/assembling an LS/VTEC engine.
2.) LS/VTEC, CR/VTEC Info – Another from HondaSwap.com, but more B20/VTEC info.
3.) LS and B20 VTEC Basics – This is a great guide for newbie’s explaining LS/VTEC motors from JDMCivic.com

 

We all know that Honda’s are like Lego’s. Many parts are interchangible and a combination can be formed to create a very fast car from stock OEM parts. One popular solution to more HP is a motor swap. There are many swaps available for Honda chassis, but some are NOT recommended. Here is a list of swaps that you should not do! I found this on HondaSwap.com.

4th gen

* D16Y7/8
* B16A2 (USDM)
* B16A3
* 96+ B18C
* 96+ B18B
* B18C5
* any H-series
* any C-series motor

We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons. The H-series will require much chassis denting, and while that may be cool to do on a race car, it makes your bay look like crap and can lead to a weaker engine bay. In addition, you wont have room for A/C or power steering if those options are required by you.The other motors are OBD-2, requiring a much greater challenge in wiring. The B- and D-series OBD-2 motors can be installed into the chassis fairly easily with a mount kit, but as stated above, the wiring is an absolute nightmare.

5th gen

* B16A SiR
* B17A
* B18A
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor

We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons as well. These motors are OBD-0, making it a hard swap into a car wired for OBD-1. It is easier to go backwards (as in, taking a 5th gen motor into a 4th gen chassis) than forwards. Remember, its all about backwards compatibility, not forwards.
While we haven’t listed the H-series motors as a non-recommended swap, we would like to say a few words about it. An H-series motor is generally 60-80 lbs heavier than a B-series motor. This adds to the already poor F/R weight distribution of Civics/Integra’s. While it can be solved with a set of stiffer springs and tighter shocks up front, it is still not a good choice for an AutoX or road course car. For drag, it excels. It’s heavier, putting more weight on the front wheels to help with traction. In addition to the weight factor, the chassis will need to be modified a little bit to fit it. Some things on the fire wall will need to be moved (such as brake master cylinder) off the wall. The drivers side quarter panel will also need to be dented in a little bit so the crank pulley doesn’t rub.

6th gen

* B16A SiR
* B16A3
* B17A
* B18A
* 94-95 B18C
* 94-95 B18B
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor

The reasons for these motors is similar to the 5th gen’s, only now we include OBD-1 in the list. When you own an OBD-2 chassis, the easiest swaps are OBD-2 motors.
The same general principles apply for the H-series motors as listed in the 5th gen’s explanation.

7th gen

* any B-series motor
* any D-series motor <2001
* any C-series motor
* any H-series motor
* any F-series motor

The new Civic’s share the i-VTEC and mounting patterns of the RSX. Neither chassis will accept an older motor. The standard D17 in the Civic or the K20 in the Civic Si/RSX are the new platforms of which Honda hybrid making will be in the future.

 

It’s the time of year when the leaves are falling, a fat man slides down your chimney, and its freakin’ cold outside! You need to protect your Honda from the harsh conditions if you want it to last in the blistering cold. Here are just a few basic tips to ensure you and your car’s safety.

Tires – Make sure you are driving on all-season or winter tires with good tread. It’s very important to be able to control your car on those snow and ice covered roads. Make sure your tires are properly rotated and aligned. Your tires should not b worn down to less than 2/32 on an inch for normal tires and 5/32 of an inch for snow tires.

Anti-Freeze - It may not sound important during cold weather, but your cooling system is crucial to surviving the cold. Make sure you have plenty of anti-freeze in your system. If you havent replaced the anti-freeze in your car for more than 2 years, it’s time to flush it and get some more anti-freeze. Sometimes anti-freeze can lose its ability to withstand freezing tempetures. Or, if you have added water to your mix, make sure to flush the system and add new anti-freeze. Make sure no hoses are cracked or have leaks. Check your radiator, thermostat, and radiator cap. Make sure your heater and defroster are functional.

Oil – It’s a good idea to change your oil before the winter months. When changing your oil, select the lowest recommended grade of oil in your owners manual. For most passenger cars, this grade is 5W-30. Also consider using a synthetic oil, as this kind of oil resists cold temp. sludge buildup.

Battery – It’s a good idea to replace your battery every three to four years. If you don’t think your battery can hold up in the cold weather, have a shop check it out for you. If it’s time to replace your battery, look for one with more starting power and higher cranking amps.

Those are just the basics in winter car care. Hopefully your Honda will be reliable through the winter months. If you have done all the things outlined in this article you should be a happy driver this winter. Happy Holidays!

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